Floating the Smith River: A Guide

Posted: November 30, -0001

I’ve been lucky enough to float the Smith River in Montana quite a few times, and even still, it’s fun to plan the 50 (58.9) mile drift down the limestone waterslide.

However, there aren’t too many, if any, resources out there that actually show and explain each of the campgrounds you can choose from for your journey.

So this is my attempt to break them down for you one by one. If you do decide to float the Smith at 100 CFS (not recommended) then you will probably have the same amount of time that Jake and I had to literally write and photograph each of the campgrounds as you grind down your kayak on the salmonfly and caddis casings lining the river bed.

Until someone ignores my advice and does it anyways, this is what I got. First, let's start with the list of campgrounds/sites and where to fish.

Upper & Lower Spring Creek on the Smith

This is the first campground that you come to.
This is a skinny section of the river with lots of boulders.
You are not yet in the canyon yet so there are open fields on the other side of the river.
If you want to spend a lot of time fishing the upper 4 mile section later in the day, and let the other floaters pass you by, you will most likely have the evening hatch up there all to yourself.

In Lieu Campground

This is the first time that you feel like you may be entering the canyon section of the river.
It’s located immediately after the sign on river right that lets you know you are on public lands if you plan on doing some hiking after you set up camp.
Lots of pocket water for fishing because of the skinny fast water and boulders here.

Indian Springs Campground Montana

3 Different camp spots here called Lower, Middle, and Upper Indian Springs.
Named after the natural springs and water fall if you want a natural shower or water bottle fill.
There is a trail that leads up past the first springs that is right on the water if you want to go on hike. (On the map they ask you not to hike above the creek.)
The campground is shady with lots of trees.

Rock Garden on the Smith River

There is a great fishing run below the campground after you have set up camp.
First nice views of the canyon walls.
Named for a large rocky section of the river.

Rock Creek Campground

Rock Creek enters the river adjacent from the campground so you have an extra creek to fish after you have everything set up at camp. However, it is on private property so you must stay below the high water mark.
There is an Upper and Lower Rock Creek to choose from. (Only one)
The Lower campground has some really cool boulders at the campground.
This campground has a wall in front of it that is great for fishing in the evenings.

Scotty Allen Campground

This is one of the most popular and busy campgrounds for 1^st night floaters. So if you are looking for lots of privacy this may not be it for you.
The fishing is great up from camp and below camp.

Syringa

There is an amazing fishing spot up river

Deep Creek

There is a long cliff on the other side of the river from this campground with a very deep pool.

Paradise Bend on the Smith

This campground borders private property
It is kind of in the open with a large field behind it and not a lot of protection.
The campground is right before a fork in the river with an island that splits the river.

Stag Miller

This campground you get back in the canyon, so if you were looking to camp in the canyon then you should elect to go here if you were wavering between Paradise Bend and Stag Miller.
This camp ground is also next to the forest which creates a nice atmosphere.

Canyon Depth

This the first campground that you really feel the drama of the canyon walls in its full effect.
Lots of great walk and wader fishing up and down from the camp site.
There is a huge eddy at the bottom end of the campground to park boats in.
You will know you are getting to this campground when you look straight down river and at the end, where there is a bend in the river, there is one single pine tree growing in a hole in the limestone wall in front of you.

Two Creek

More open than Canyon Depth
There are still the big canyon walls to look at.
There is skinnier water here than the previous campgrounds.
This is the last campground you come to before getting to the Heaven on Earth Ranch. (County Line is the last campground before the ranch)

Bear Gulch

This is the campground immediately after Heaven on Earth Ranch. So if you plan to stop there to take them up on any of their activities for an afternoon this would be a great place to camp. Heaven on Earth Ranch Link HERE.
There may be more fishing pressure here due to the nearby public access.
In an emergency this is one of the easiest places to get out if you have to.

Trust Creek

This is another really pretty campground with large limestone faces.
There is a large grassy field in front if you plan on playing some outdoor games in the evening.

Crowsfoot

The layout of this campground allows 280 degree views but that also means there isn’t a lot of cover.
This is a huge bend in the river so quick access to a lot of fishing.
Big canyon walls makes this campground very scenic in good weather.

Table Rock

Named after the rock formation that looks like it going to tip over with a slight nudge on the other side of the river.
This is a very open campground with tons of space but not a lot of trees.
The water here is gentle and slow.

Fraunhofer

Amazing face of limestone directly across from the campground.
You are now entering cattle country and there can be cows that visit behind the campground.
There is a great view down river as well.

Meadow Campground

Immediately down river from Fraunhofer with a very similar vibe but like the name implies it’s more open.

Parker Flats Campground on the Smith River

There are some trees here but it’s not in the forest but there are still very nice views pointed down river.
There is an "eye of the needle" if you look up from this campground at the skyline.
Upper Parker Flats is actually on river right across from the actual Parker Flats.

Overview of Floating the Smith River: Preparation & Ideal Conditions

The Smith River is one of my favorite places in Montana. The 5 day floats harbor some of my favorite memories. Nothing beats the serenity of floating and fly fishing the river throughout these unforgettable backdrops.

I have been fortunate enough to float the permitted section of the river since I was young. Through those experiences, I can tell you that the weather, water levels, and campsites weigh heavy on your experience. The weather is obviously out of your control.

It is Montana, be prepared for EVERYTHING. You don’t want to get caught out on the river for 5 days in rain and snow with nothing but a sweatshirt and a few cans of beans. I have friends that can testify to that. Talk to the fortunate people that get to live out there and they will tell you horror stories of rescuing unprepared floaters.

Our target CFS for raft trips is around 350-300 cubic feet per second. Higher water means you can cover a lot more ground but fishing generally suffers. Lower water becomes a lot more work. You drag on rock beds and boulder fields become a little more challenging. Once you draw your trip, that is out of your control also.

Choosing the right campsites, is something that you can control. Campsites are chosen on a first come first serve basis. Most groups will spend the night the day before in hopes to get the first choice of campsites. I would recommend that plan.

Now, everyone has varying experiences at each campsite and I have certainly not had the opportunity to test them all but this is my opinion of each site.

How we normally structure our floats:

Camp Baker: 0 miles: Boat launch for the Smith River float. There are primitive camping facilities. You are welcome to camp here the night before your float. Again, choosing campsites is on a first come first serve basis, I would recommend you get there early. You must check in with the ranger before launching your boats.
Spring Creek (Upper and Lower) - 4.4 miles: I have never personally stayed at spring creek since it is only 4.4 miles into the trip. The campgrounds looks nice. Upper and lower are pretty close together with (relatively) little separation/privacy. Upper has a lot more trees / cover.
In Lieu: 5.6 miles: (Sams Info): I have never stayed there-. Don’t know if I ever will.

Indian Springs (Upper, Middle, Lower): 6 miles: *
1. Indian Springs water is a drinkable water source.
  1. Indian springs is located across the river from the Middle campground.
2. Campground rankings best to worst would be: Lower, Middle, Upper Indian Springs.
  1. Lower is just down river from the actual springs but offers a lot of trees and boulders to camp around.
  2. A lot more privacy then the first two. Upper and middle are right next to each other.
3. Rock Garden (Upper and Lower): 6.8 miles: *
  1. I prefer Upper to lower rock garden.
    1. For no other reason, other than I think it is a cooler campsite.
    2. Both campground offer privacy.
  2. Rock Creek: 8.9 miles -*
    1. Probably one of the most popular first day campsites because of the fishing opportunities on Rock Creek.
    2. If you are a fisherman and can get it; get it.
  3. Scotty Allen’s Black Canyon aka Scotty Allen (Upper, Middle, Lower): 12 miles: *
    1. Another very popular 1^st day campground.
    2. Each campground is very private, and they get progressively larger the further down river you go.
    3. I prefer Lower, then Upper, then Middle
      1. Lower is one of my favorite first day campsites.
      2. It is huge campsite with cover and decent fishing.

It’s only downfall is the "bathroom" is a steep hike all the way up the ridge. Enough of a hike, to really make you question how bad you need to go.

Syringa: 15.2 miles - *
1. Similar campsite to Lower Scotty Allen.
  1. A bench with a steep hill behind it. It’s a good campground. This campground makes for a long first day or short second.
2. Canyon Depth: 16.9 miles -*
  1. Sweet Campground at an interesting mile marker. It has trees and boulders with backdrop of a dramatic limestone cliff stretching all the way around the river corner.
  2. It is just far enough to be a pretty long first day float, especially in low water. Or it is a short second day float. Either way, it is worth taking a look at to see if you can fit it in on your trip.

Two Creek: 17.8 miles -
1. (Sam’s Info: Not that last campground before the ranch)
2. Surrounded by small limestone cliffs
3. Open 360 degree views
Sheep Wagon: 18.4 miles:
1. Campground on the right just past a river bend.
2. Across the river from smaller limestone cliffs
3. Camp has sun and shade opportunities
4. A private cabin is within view of the camp.
Cow Coulee (Upper, Middle, Lower): 22.8 miles:
1. Upper is a wide open field with a few trees.
2. Middle is located on the bend of the river with more tree cover.
  1. Large still water pool
3. Lower is located a ways downstream on a bench with some trees.
4. All campsites are across from some smaller cliffs. Lower less than middle and upper.
5. There are some decent fishing opportunities at each campsite.
Sunset Cliffs (Upper, Middle, and Lower) - 23.6 miles - *
1. These astatically are some of my favorite campsites. Across the river is a massive orange cliff face.
2. Middle and Lower are my first choices of campgrounds.
  1. The only sacrifice, is middle and lower are in close proximity to each other.
  2. Lower is a lot larger campsite but middle is right on the river bend.

If you get the chance to stay at any of these three, do it.
1. It is the token Smith River campground to me.

County Lines: 25.5 Miles:
1. Open campground boxed in by mountains and small cliffs
2. Last campground before Heaven on Earth Ranch
3. Pretty wide shallow water
Bear Gultch (Upper and Lower): 29 Miles:
1. Both fairly open grass fields with some trees and tall bushes.
2. Lower is half way to Eden Bridge
3. No preference between upper and lower
  1. Except lower has more tree cover.
4. Trout Creek (Upper, Middle, Lower): 30.3 - *
  1. These three campgrounds are really close together.
  2. They do offer good campgrounds with great views.
    1. You are almost completely surrounded by cliffs and a steep hill with tall trees.
    2. I think lower has the best view over all.

Crows Foot: 32 Miles - *
1. Crows foot offers next to no cover but has spectacular panoramic views.
  1. I feel experience would vary based on the weather.
    1. Better the weather the better the campground.
  2. A large bend in the river featuring a large grassy field on one side. The outside of the bend is a horseshoe of cliffs.
    1. I pulled up to the camp for the first time disappointed but left very pleasantly surprised.
  3. No campgrounds near it, but not private from passing floaters.
2. Table Rock (Upper, Middle, Lower): 33.5 Miles:
  1. Table rock is extremely anticlimactic to me. It is just not a set of campgrounds I get excited about.
  2. I hear of groups staying here semi frequently, but it would be one of my last choices.
    1. After seeing all of these beautiful rock formations, you see table rock and I all I thought was "meh"
  3. Campgrounds are really close together with limited cover and not much if any privacy.
3. Fraunhoffer (Upper, Middle, Lower): 35.4 Miles: *
  1. Dido Sam’s opinion ( Upper Fraunhoffer)
  2. Upper is a cool campground with a big cliff face to admire at camp.
  3. Middle is slightly less spectacular
    1. Has a steep hike up the gravel bank to the campsite.
  4. Lower is significantly further downriver than the first two.
    1. It is more open country.
    2. Popular because of its hiking opportunities
  5. First choice is upper, then middle and lower are a wash.
4. Upper Parker Flat: 37.5 Miles -
  1. Upper Parker Flat is a more open campground featuring a few very tall trees with limited cover. You are on a river bend with a great cliff across the river. There are some good fishing opportunities especially later in the afternoon.
5. Parker Flat (#1, #2, #3): 37.9 Miles -
  1. #1 is on the next river bend on the opposite river side.
    1. It is surrounded by the start of a cliff, with trees behind the campground, and a large rock bar to park boats.
  2. #2 is in the middle of the cliff started at #1. It has a large tree backdrop with cliff views across the river.
  3. #3 is at the end of the flat just before the river bends again. It also features cliffs across the river with a thick tree backdrop to the campsite.
  4. All of the campground are relatively close but do have lots of cover and pretty adequate privacy.

Deep Creek: 38.7 Miles:
1. Deep Creek is has plenty of fishing opportunities against the large cliff face across the river.
2. Deep Creek has NO PIT LATRINE!!! Human waste must be packed out with an approved waste system.
Paradise Bend: 39.5 Miles:
1. Paradise bend is on a high bench with trees surrounding the campsite and a large field behind it. Also has cliffs across the river.
Staigmiller: 44 miles - A semi open campsite after a river bend. There are some trees for cover but is mostly open grassy tent sites.
1. I have had some luck fishing at Staigmiller while we stopped for lunch.
Merganser Bend: 44.5 miles
1. On the map it says, "This camp is easily missed." Guess what, I missed it. It is the only campsite on this trip I did not get a photo of. Up to this point, I had never actually heard of this campground. If you have any photos or information about this trip send it our way.
Black Butte (Upper and Lower): 8 miles -
1. I have never had the chance to stay at either of the Black Buttes but I have always been curious about them.
2. They have a semi steep but short hike up to the campsites. They are on a high bench across from some abrupt cliff faces. They have pretty cool views. I would be a little weary about the landing sites in high water. At 100cfs you have all the space you could need.
3. They are close together so privacy may be limited.
4. If I had to guess, I would guess I would rather stay at lower over upper. It’s a toss-up though.
Ridgetop (Upper, Middle, Lower): 45 miles: *
1. Upper: Upper is its own campsite. It is at the start of a tighter river bend. With Cliffs on the opposite side of the river. Upper Ridgetop and the Black Butte camps are visible to each other, but are on opposite and down river from each other. I have stayed at Ridgetop a lot but never at Upper Ridgetop.
2. Middle + Lower: These are the two closest camps to each other. With two large groups it looks like one large campsite. You also have two of the longest hikes from the water’s edge to the campsites. Which makes hauling gear to camp a little bit of a pain. That all being said these are two of my favorite campsites for the last night on the Smith. They have tons of tree cover with a large forest canopy. It offers an elevated scenic view of the river different than any of the campsites I have stayed at. More than once we have been greeted by wild turkeys across the river.

Givens Gulch (Upper and Lower): 47.2 miles:
1. Stay river left around the island to access both Givens Gulch campgrounds. Both are located on a long river bench.
2. I have never stayed at either campgrounds. Upper is a little challenging for boat parking. Looks like a cutout in the bushes trees with not a ton to look at. It does offer a lot more cover than the lower campground. I would pay attention staying at this camp as well, because it does sneak up on you.
3. Lower is on the river bend flat after one of the Smith’s "rapids." At 100 cfs there is a very small rock drop off we decided not to risk. It is the most significant rapid on the whole river with flows below 350cfs.
  1. Lower is probably my preferred campground of the two, but neither has really sparked my interest.
4. Rattlesnake (Upper and Lower): 47.4 miles: THE LAST BOAT CAMPS BEFORE EDEN BRIDGE.
  1. Upper Rattlesnake is just around the bend from Lower Givens Gulch. It has very limited tree coverage but a cliff wall just across the water. There are some decent fishing opportunities behind the faster water and along the cliffs edge.
  2. Lower Rattlesnake has zero tree coverage, it is just an open field of grasses and rocks. There is still a nice cliff to look at across the river. I have heard that Rattlesnake campgrounds have their name for a reason, but I have never seen any snakes there. Trust me, I am not a fan of Rattlesnakes.
  3. I would prefer Upper to Lower Rattlesnake.
5. Eden Bridge: 58.9 miles
  1. Make takeout for the permitted section of the river. Be ready for a fast pull in just before the bridge. If you pass the bridge you have gone too far.

*= Jake’s Recommended campgrounds

What do you think? What are your favorite and least favorite campsites and why? Do you agree with our assessments or have more information or pictures to add submit them below and we will add the best information to our blog to create the most informational guide to the Smith River out-there.